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	<title>Comments on: Pointing a lead</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead</link>
	<description>exploring the art and science of pencils since 2005</description>
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		<title>By: AndyO</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-83015</link>
		<dc:creator>AndyO</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Dec 2010 21:26:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-83015</guid>
		<description>You can use a mill bastard metal file to sharpen graphite lead. It works great and it&#039;s better in my opinion than sandpaper. Also, a lot cheaper too.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can use a mill bastard metal file to sharpen graphite lead. It works great and it&#8217;s better in my opinion than sandpaper. Also, a lot cheaper too.</p>
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		<title>By: Jason</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-42646</link>
		<dc:creator>Jason</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jul 2010 14:36:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-42646</guid>
		<description>You can purchase the Gedess lead pointer at www.pencilthings.com.  I have been looking for a decent 3.15mm lead pointer ever since I picked up a Lamy Scribble.  It appears though, to use the Gedess, the lead holder has to be a standard issue (i.e., the Lamy will not fit into the turret on top), so I am getting an Alvin Tech DA to use for sharpening the lead.  It&#039;s an extra step though, but if it provides a better point than the KUM 23 Automatic, it would be worth it.  Never tried the 23 yet, getting it with the order of the Gedess, so I can compare.  I&#039;ve heard the blades don&#039;t last very long in the KUM sharpeners...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can purchase the Gedess lead pointer at <a href="http://www.pencilthings.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.pencilthings.com</a>.  I have been looking for a decent 3.15mm lead pointer ever since I picked up a Lamy Scribble.  It appears though, to use the Gedess, the lead holder has to be a standard issue (i.e., the Lamy will not fit into the turret on top), so I am getting an Alvin Tech DA to use for sharpening the lead.  It&#8217;s an extra step though, but if it provides a better point than the KUM 23 Automatic, it would be worth it.  Never tried the 23 yet, getting it with the order of the Gedess, so I can compare.  I&#8217;ve heard the blades don&#8217;t last very long in the KUM sharpeners&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Dennis</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-37446</link>
		<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:37:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-37446</guid>
		<description>Marc (and anyone else who cares),

I think your technique of removing the lead from wooden pencils is not entirely nuts, it&#039;s only mostly nuts.  I&#039;ve collected a few anecdotes from old-timers who would resort to such measures in a pinch.  I suspect the technique was fairly widespread in the early days of removable lead drawing pencils when the naked leads cost more than the pencils which had much longer leads in them.  For no good reason I can think of, the price of naked leads has almost always been only slightly less than wooden pencils with the same lead in them. 

The process of making leads is:  Make leads*.  Stamp name on them.  Package them.  

Whereas the process of making pencils is something like this: 
Make leads*.  Harvest cedar.  Dry cedar. Cut cedar. Mill grooves in cedar.  Glue leads in cedar.  Mill cedar with leads embedded to shape of pencil.  Apply color finish to pencils (probably in multiple coats).  Varnish pencils.  Foil stamp name in pencils. Package pencils.

* There are many, many steps to making the lead, but the process is the same whether they are sold naked or not.


Moving on... I&#039;m wondering what technique you used to remove the wood from the lead?

There exists a trianglar shaped 3-hole handheld pointer that does this job, though it seems to be designed for pencils with only 2 mm leads.  I must say it is strangely-fun to see if you can remove the wood entirely without breaking the lead.

The pointers used to be sold as Koh-I-Noor, though there was no name on them: http://www.leadholder.com/cat-kin-1985b-5.html  (could the OEM be KUM?)  

You can still buy them here:  http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Alvin_Three_Hole_Sharpener.html

The description at Reuels is out of date.  The 3-hole model has not had the lanyard loop since the early 1990s, I think, and the three holes work as follows:  one hole sharpens a pencil in the usual way.  One hole strips only the wood away.  One hole is a not-very-good lead pointer.

Cheers.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Marc (and anyone else who cares),</p>
<p>I think your technique of removing the lead from wooden pencils is not entirely nuts, it&#8217;s only mostly nuts.  I&#8217;ve collected a few anecdotes from old-timers who would resort to such measures in a pinch.  I suspect the technique was fairly widespread in the early days of removable lead drawing pencils when the naked leads cost more than the pencils which had much longer leads in them.  For no good reason I can think of, the price of naked leads has almost always been only slightly less than wooden pencils with the same lead in them. </p>
<p>The process of making leads is:  Make leads*.  Stamp name on them.  Package them.  </p>
<p>Whereas the process of making pencils is something like this:<br />
Make leads*.  Harvest cedar.  Dry cedar. Cut cedar. Mill grooves in cedar.  Glue leads in cedar.  Mill cedar with leads embedded to shape of pencil.  Apply color finish to pencils (probably in multiple coats).  Varnish pencils.  Foil stamp name in pencils. Package pencils.</p>
<p>* There are many, many steps to making the lead, but the process is the same whether they are sold naked or not.</p>
<p>Moving on&#8230; I&#8217;m wondering what technique you used to remove the wood from the lead?</p>
<p>There exists a trianglar shaped 3-hole handheld pointer that does this job, though it seems to be designed for pencils with only 2 mm leads.  I must say it is strangely-fun to see if you can remove the wood entirely without breaking the lead.</p>
<p>The pointers used to be sold as Koh-I-Noor, though there was no name on them: <a href="http://www.leadholder.com/cat-kin-1985b-5.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.leadholder.com/cat-kin-1985b-5.html</a>  (could the OEM be KUM?)  </p>
<p>You can still buy them here:  <a href="http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Alvin_Three_Hole_Sharpener.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Alvin_Three_Hole_Sharpener.html</a></p>
<p>The description at Reuels is out of date.  The 3-hole model has not had the lanyard loop since the early 1990s, I think, and the three holes work as follows:  one hole sharpens a pencil in the usual way.  One hole strips only the wood away.  One hole is a not-very-good lead pointer.</p>
<p>Cheers.</p>
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		<title>By: Marc</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-37210</link>
		<dc:creator>Marc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2010 17:32:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-37210</guid>
		<description>Gedess pointer. Great. I appreciate you taking the time to answer.

I have been doing a lot of research and wasn&#039;t having any luck finding something to sharpen the 3 mm [3.15mm] leads I have. After reading your reply I found one [ttp://www.leadholder.com/point-gedess.html]. Still having a hard time finding a place where I can purchase it/order it.

Question on the Gedess pointer, do you think its better or comparable to the sharpness you get with the Rotary style pointers ? I guess it doesn&#039;t matter as there doesn&#039;t seem to be much of a choice for 3mm lead sharpeners.

Yes... I have had some funny looks when people see me removing ALL the wood from my &quot;B&quot; pencils. This strange process all started when I received my first vise-grip jaw lead holder. I recieved a lot of 2 mm &quot;HB&quot; leads and over a year... use them up. I loved using the lead holder so much that I just started taking regular pencils and removing the woods and using the leads. When I began to learn to shade and understand value... I just started removing the wood from all my pencils and using them in my lead holder.

I didn&#039;t understand why the leads in my &quot;B&quot; pencils weren&#039;t fitting in my lead holder and I set out researching on the net on a vise-grip jaw lead holder that would fit the 3/3.15mm leads I was getting out of my &quot;B&quot; pencils. I purchased my second vise-grip jaw lead holder, Alvin TECH DA Lead Holder - for 2mm to 3mm Leads, a few months ago and am forced to use sand paper and the hand held plastic sharpener, as I call them... to sharpen my 3 mm &quot;B&quot; leads.

As you can tell... I am self taught and take a non-traditional approach. I am sure the you and the majority of the readers here purchase 3.15 mm leads and do not use my wood removal methods. I wouldn&#039;t even know where to get a 3.15 mm lead...:)

As I am researching I just now realize that I can purchase 2mm leads in the full range of &quot;B&quot; softnesses... lol. I am silly sometimes, but I do have fun.

Thanks again. Sorry for all the brain droppings. Hope this helps someone. I appreciate all your help.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gedess pointer. Great. I appreciate you taking the time to answer.</p>
<p>I have been doing a lot of research and wasn&#8217;t having any luck finding something to sharpen the 3 mm [3.15mm] leads I have. After reading your reply I found one [ttp://www.leadholder.com/point-gedess.html]. Still having a hard time finding a place where I can purchase it/order it.</p>
<p>Question on the Gedess pointer, do you think its better or comparable to the sharpness you get with the Rotary style pointers ? I guess it doesn&#8217;t matter as there doesn&#8217;t seem to be much of a choice for 3mm lead sharpeners.</p>
<p>Yes&#8230; I have had some funny looks when people see me removing ALL the wood from my &#8220;B&#8221; pencils. This strange process all started when I received my first vise-grip jaw lead holder. I recieved a lot of 2 mm &#8220;HB&#8221; leads and over a year&#8230; use them up. I loved using the lead holder so much that I just started taking regular pencils and removing the woods and using the leads. When I began to learn to shade and understand value&#8230; I just started removing the wood from all my pencils and using them in my lead holder.</p>
<p>I didn&#8217;t understand why the leads in my &#8220;B&#8221; pencils weren&#8217;t fitting in my lead holder and I set out researching on the net on a vise-grip jaw lead holder that would fit the 3/3.15mm leads I was getting out of my &#8220;B&#8221; pencils. I purchased my second vise-grip jaw lead holder, Alvin TECH DA Lead Holder &#8211; for 2mm to 3mm Leads, a few months ago and am forced to use sand paper and the hand held plastic sharpener, as I call them&#8230; to sharpen my 3 mm &#8220;B&#8221; leads.</p>
<p>As you can tell&#8230; I am self taught and take a non-traditional approach. I am sure the you and the majority of the readers here purchase 3.15 mm leads and do not use my wood removal methods. I wouldn&#8217;t even know where to get a 3.15 mm lead&#8230;:)</p>
<p>As I am researching I just now realize that I can purchase 2mm leads in the full range of &#8220;B&#8221; softnesses&#8230; lol. I am silly sometimes, but I do have fun.</p>
<p>Thanks again. Sorry for all the brain droppings. Hope this helps someone. I appreciate all your help.</p>
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		<title>By: penciladmin</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-37207</link>
		<dc:creator>penciladmin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2010 14:45:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-37207</guid>
		<description>Hi Marc, thank you for the praise.

The Gedess pointer will work with 3.15mm lead, though as mentioned, it is a different concept than the Staedtler 502.

Your wood removal technique is also interesting, as these leads can be quite expensive.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Marc, thank you for the praise.</p>
<p>The Gedess pointer will work with 3.15mm lead, though as mentioned, it is a different concept than the Staedtler 502.</p>
<p>Your wood removal technique is also interesting, as these leads can be quite expensive.</p>
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		<title>By: Marc</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-37205</link>
		<dc:creator>Marc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2010 01:29:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-37205</guid>
		<description>This web site is the most informative of anywhere I have been on net. Thanks you very much.

Has anyone found that its very hard to find a Rotary Lead Pointer for 3 mm leads ? I was thinking about getting another STAEDTLER Rotary Lead Pointer and just drilling out the hole to 3 mm to see if it will work with my 3 mm leads.

Comments and recommendations please.

P.S. I commonly remove the wood from my standard &quot;B&quot; drawing pencils and they are 3 mm. I use them in my 3 mm lead holder.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This web site is the most informative of anywhere I have been on net. Thanks you very much.</p>
<p>Has anyone found that its very hard to find a Rotary Lead Pointer for 3 mm leads ? I was thinking about getting another STAEDTLER Rotary Lead Pointer and just drilling out the hole to 3 mm to see if it will work with my 3 mm leads.</p>
<p>Comments and recommendations please.</p>
<p>P.S. I commonly remove the wood from my standard &#8220;B&#8221; drawing pencils and they are 3 mm. I use them in my 3 mm lead holder.</p>
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		<title>By: Kevin</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-34642</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 12:23:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-34642</guid>
		<description>My own personal experience sharpening a 5.6mm lead with a standard medium quality blade sharpener was disastrous - the sharpener blunted on its first attempt at sharpening these behemoths. I think sharpening graphite only dulls the blade more than a normal pencil - just my experience.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My own personal experience sharpening a 5.6mm lead with a standard medium quality blade sharpener was disastrous &#8211; the sharpener blunted on its first attempt at sharpening these behemoths. I think sharpening graphite only dulls the blade more than a normal pencil &#8211; just my experience.</p>
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		<title>By: Uncle Bob</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-34587</link>
		<dc:creator>Uncle Bob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Apr 2009 22:55:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-34587</guid>
		<description>Thank you! I recently purchased a Staedler 502, and I just couldn&#039;t work out how to make it sharpen my leads. Your link to the .pdf file saved the day.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you! I recently purchased a Staedler 502, and I just couldn&#8217;t work out how to make it sharpen my leads. Your link to the .pdf file saved the day.</p>
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		<title>By: duc</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-34173</link>
		<dc:creator>duc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Feb 2009 19:27:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-34173</guid>
		<description>I did not know about the Mt. Blanc cap sharpener.
Do they make big lead holders or just for small?
Nice post btw.
Duc</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I did not know about the Mt. Blanc cap sharpener.<br />
Do they make big lead holders or just for small?<br />
Nice post btw.<br />
Duc</p>
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		<title>By: Lexikaliker &#187; Blog-Archiv &#187; Paperworld 2009</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-34154</link>
		<dc:creator>Lexikaliker &#187; Blog-Archiv &#187; Paperworld 2009</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Feb 2009 19:19:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-34154</guid>
		<description>[...] es bisher ziemlich knifflig, den pfiffigen Minenspitzer von Gedess hierzulande zu bekommen, so ist das Problem nun gelöst, denn Standardgraph hat ihn im Programm. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] es bisher ziemlich knifflig, den pfiffigen Minenspitzer von Gedess hierzulande zu bekommen, so ist das Problem nun gelöst, denn Standardgraph hat ihn im Programm. [...]</p>
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		<title>By: penciladmin</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-34078</link>
		<dc:creator>penciladmin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Jan 2009 03:20:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-34078</guid>
		<description>Except that this is not an article about pencil sharpeners...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Except that this is not an article about pencil sharpeners&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Richard Rabkin</title>
		<link>http://www.penciltalk.org/2009/01/pointing-a-lead/comment-page-1#comment-34077</link>
		<dc:creator>Richard Rabkin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jan 2009 18:20:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://173.203.81.145/?p=265#comment-34077</guid>
		<description>Have you seen the Casco ( about $400) pencil sharpener made in Spain?  Perhaps, that&#039;s the one you&#039;re holding in reserve.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have you seen the Casco ( about $400) pencil sharpener made in Spain?  Perhaps, that&#8217;s the one you&#8217;re holding in reserve.</p>
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